When buying a handcrafted hat, look beyond the crown shape and colour. Check the felt, the way the sweatband is fitted, the ribbon stitching and how the maker approaches sizing. Price, lead times and aftercare are worth asking about too.
Whether you're choosing a ready-made hat or commissioning a bespoke one, here's what I look for from a hatmakers perspective, what I'd suggest asking before you buy, and how I approach these details at B.H-Jones Hatmaker.
Hat materials: know what you're buying
For a felt hat, start with the felt itself. Rabbit, beaver and blended felts have different qualities that affect their feel, appearance, performance and price. Ask what the felt is made from rather than relying on descriptions such as "premium", "luxury" or a particular quality "X" rating without understanding what it means.
When buying online, ask about the felt’s composition, weight and intended use, as density and feel are difficult to judge from photographs alone. Close-up images can help you assess the surface finish, but they won’t tell you everything. Heavier felt doesn’t automatically mean better; the right material depends on the style of hat and the qualities you’re looking for.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: I work predominantly with 100% rabbit felt from reputable UK and European suppliers, alongside 100% beaver and rabbit/beaver blends. For certain Western styles, I also source heavier felts from the USA. For a commission, I'll explain the available options and help you choose something suited to your design, preferences and budget.
Hat construction and finishing: what to check
The crown, brim and ribbon give a hat much of its character. The details of how they're put together matter too.
The brim break and belled sweatband
The brim break is where the crown meets the brim. Its shape should suit the hat's design and help it maintain its intended form.
Inside, look at how the sweatband sits against the base of the crown. A properly belled sweatband flares outwards towards the brim, helping it follow the shape of the hat and sit comfortably against the head. Its fit around the brim break matters too, as it helps cover this junction and reduce the chance of sweat and moisture wicking into the felt.
Ribbon stitching and sweatband attachment
Look at how the ribbon is fitted and secured. It should sit as intended, without loose sections likely to snag or lift. Consistent, secure stitching helps keep it in place, whether the stitching is discreet or deliberately visible as part of the design.
It's also worth considering how the sweatband is fitted. As a working part of the hat, it may eventually need replacing, and the method used to secure it can affect how straightforward that is.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: I pay attention to these practical details as well as the overall appearance. I prefer sweatbands that are stitched in, as this can make future replacement more straightforward. I also aim for securely fitted ribbons and discreet stitching, unless a contrasting finish is part of the design.
Hat fit: why size and head shape both matter
Circumference is the starting point, not the whole story. Two people with the same head measurement can have quite different head shapes, which means the same hat size won't necessarily fit them in the same way.
If you're buying a ready-made hat, check the sizing information and ask about the fit if you're unsure. If you're commissioning one, find out how the maker accounts for your head shape as well as your measurement.
Crown height and brim width also affect how a hat looks and feels on you, but there are no rigid rules about what you should wear. Comfort matters, and so does choosing a hat you enjoy wearing.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: Fit is central to my bespoke commissions. I use a conformateur or a custom sizing kit to establish your head measurement and shape. Consultations can take place remotely, with guidance throughout the measuring process.
Design: choose a hat for how you'll wear it
A hat can look excellent on a shelf and still be the wrong hat for your needs. Think about when and where you'll wear it. Is it for everyday use, a particular occasion, or a style you've wanted for years? Consider the clothes you'll wear it with and the shapes you're naturally drawn to.
Practical preferences can matter too. You might love a generous brim but find it inconvenient for certain activities, or want a particular crown shape because of the way it looks with your usual clothing. These are useful things to consider when choosing a design.
You don't need a fully formed idea to get started. A reference photograph, a colour, a vintage style or a particular detail can all provide inspiration.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: My one-of-a-kind ready-made hats and made-to-order collections of Fedoras, Western styles and straw hats are a useful starting point if you're exploring your options. You might find a design you love as it is, or spot details you'd like to adapt for a more personal commission. We can explore the materials, shapes and finishes that will bring your ideas together. Bespoke doesn't have to mean adding more detail; sometimes it means getting a simple design just right.
Price: what influences the cost of a handcrafted hat?
The price of a hat reflects its materials, design and the work involved. Different felt bodies come at different costs, while specialist ribbons, particular brim finishes and more elaborate designs can also influence the final price.
Think of it like a tailored suit or a pair of bespoke shoes: you're paying for more than the materials. Fit, individual choices and the skill involved in bringing everything together are all part of the value.
Two hats that look similar in a photograph may use different materials or involve quite different amounts of work. Equally, the more expensive felt isn't automatically the best choice for your needs.
For a commission, make sure you understand the agreed total price and whether any optional extras or special requirements carry an additional charge.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: I quote a total price for your commission. Any additional charges for optional services, such as brim binding, or particular requirements are clearly shown, so you know the agreed cost before work begins.
Bespoke hat lead times: check before committing
If you need a hat for a particular date, mention it at the outset. Materials may need to be ordered, and existing commissions, supplier availability, shaping, drying and finishing all affect the time required.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: Lead times vary depending on the design, material availability and current workload. I'll discuss timing with you before you commit. Once your hat is complete, I'll also send photographs for approval before dispatch.
For a closer look at the commissioning process itself, you can read my separate guide, How to Commission a Bespoke Hat: What to Expect.
Hat aftercare: ask about maintenance and repairs
Ribbons and sweatbands wear. Shapes may need refreshing, and a hat you wear regularly may need attention over time. It's worth considering what maintenance and repair support is available, particularly if you intend to wear the hat often.
Construction, materials and condition all affect what can be repaired, so not every hat can be restored in the same way.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker: I offer renovation and repair services for vintage and customer-owned hats, including those made by other hatmakers. Hats I've made can also be maintained and repaired at a discounted rate. I believe looking after a hat is part of getting the most from it, and it's worth considering that support alongside the initial purchase price.
Choosing between ready-made, made-to-order and bespoke hats
Start with a design you like, then look a little closer. Consider what it's made from, how it fits, how it's finished and what support might be available when it needs attention.
A ready-made hat may already have everything you want. A made-to-order design may offer the choices you're looking for. A bespoke commission gives you the opportunity to work through the details individually. None is automatically the right route for everyone; it depends on what you're looking for.
At B.H-Jones Hatmaker, you can explore one-of-a-kind ready-made hats, made-to-order collections and bespoke commissions, each offering a different way to find a hat that suits you.
Browse the ready-made hats, fur felt designs and straw hat collection for inspiration, or get in touch to discuss a bespoke commission. Whether you already know exactly what you want or are still exploring possibilities, we can take it from there.